Foldup Paper Models - Microtactix - Dirt Cheep Strongholds - Basic Set, Modele kartonowe, Model kartonowy - Warhammer ...
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from MicroTactix Games
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fortifications can be built and by including the corner
sections can be made to turn at right and left angles.
Examples of the types of fortifications that can be built
are shown in the photographs in these instructions.
DISCLAIMER
We have made every effort to make sure that all
parts fit together properly, but sometimes tolerances
are tight and mistakes do happen. Test fit all pieces
before applying glue. Some trimming may be
required.
Before photocopying or printing these pages on
cardstock, you may wish to assemble a test copy on
plain paper to better understand the construction. A
minimum of 65# cover stock is recommended for
constructing the final models. Regular 20 lb. bond
paper can be used, but these items were designed for
a heavier stock for extra durability and coloring.
EARTHWORK FORTIFICATION
2 Pages
Each completed piece will consist of 3 parts, an
earthen mound, a catwalk that attaches to the back
of the mound and a wooden palisade. To construct the
earthen mound, cut out and score as indicated. Fold
down the sides first and fold the front panels to match
the angles on the side panels. Glue down one side at
a time. When finished with both sides, fold the tabs on
the back panel in and glue to the inside of the side
panels. Set this section aside to dry.
Cut out and score the catwalk. If you wish to cut
out the white spaces between the supports, do not do
it at this time. Fold up the back panel and glue to the
inside of the panel it is attached to. This will create a
two sided panel with printing on the front and back.
When the two sides are dry, cut out the white spaces
between the supports if desired. Fold in the 2 side
panels and fold down the glue tabs along the top. Fold
down the top panel and glue the two tabs on the side
panels to the underside. Fold up the long, narrow
panel at the top edge of the catwalk top. When dry,
apply glue to the long narrow panel and apply glue to
the inside (unprinted) of the two support posts at the
ends of the side panels. Place the catwalk at the back
of the earthen fortification and press into place. Set
this section aside to dry.
Tools Required:
Scalpel or sharp-bladed hobby knife
Metal ruler or straightedge
Cutting surface - a self-healing cutting mat is
recommended, but a sheet of corrugated cardboard or
even heavy poster board will work as well.
Glue - white glue, glue stick or wax stick. Double
sided cellophane tape also works well. Rubber cement
can be used, but will sometimes stain the cardstock
or discolor colored inks and cause them to run.
A Note About Using White Glue
White glue contains a good deal of water. Too much
glue will warp the card stock so that its almost
unusable. Warping may also cause the parts to fit
together incorrectly. If you use white glue, put a very
thin coat on the glue tabs - the thinner the better. You
can use a cotton swab or your finger to spread the glue
thin. Remember to keep a damp paper towel handy to
remove any excess glue.
The Earthworks shown from the front and
back. Note the cutouts between the support
beams. Ladders to the catwalk are optional
and not shown on the right.
PLEASE NOTE:
Each item has been marked with a series of Grey
Lines that are an indicator that these lines are Fold
or Score lines. All Tabs which are to be glued to hold
the structures together are marked with a capital
letter (G). Unless otherwise noted, all Glue Tabs fold
inwards to the structure.
Go to Page 2 of this section and cut out the wooden
palisade. Score and fold along the center and glue the
2 halves together, front to back, creating a 2 sided
panel. When dry, the white areas along the top can be
cut out to create a more dimensional look as shown
in the photographs. Cut out and score the ladders on
this page. Fold in the center and glue together. When
dry, cut out the white areas between the rungs if
desired. To attach to the catwalks, fold down the top
panel, apply glue to the unprinted side and place on
the catwalk as desired. NOTE: This page contains
Most of the pieces in Dirt Cheep Strongholds
were designed to be printed in multiples and
connected together for larger structures. The two
most modular pieces in the set are the earthenwork
fortifications and the trenches. A number of
enough pieces to finish 2 earthworks, so if you print
4 of the first page (the earthworks and catwalk) you’ll
only need to print 2 of this page to finish the pieces.
While you can fit all 4 ladders on this page on a single
catwalk, you can fit on only 1 palisade.
and 4 leg supports and two upper supports. Cut out
and score all pieces as indicated. Each of the pieces will
fold into a box shape. Glue the tab to the inside to
create a box and when dry, fold down the triangular
tabs along the top and bottom edges, apply glue, and
fold the tops and bottoms into place. The upper
supports and folded in the middle and glued together
and the tabs on either end are folded out. For final
construction, glue the two uprights over the blank
(white) squares on the underside of crossbeam. When
this section is dry, attach the 2 upper supports to the
inside of the uprights and the underside of the
crossbeam. See photograph for proper placement of
these pieces. The lower leg supports will construct
like the other pieces on this page, but do not have a
top and bottom piece. After assembly, fold in the tabs
at the top, apply glue and attach to the front and back
of the upright. Repeat for the second side. See
EARTHWORK CORNERS
1 Page Each
These two pieces will construct like the pieces
given above except for the catwalk on the first corner.
The floor on this catwalk is triangular shaped and has
2 panels attached on either side. These are the
outside panels. The 2 panels attache to them are the
inside panels. Fold up the bottom (inside) panels and
glue front to back. When dry, cut out the spaces
between the supports. Fold the completed sides down
from the floor. Fold in the extra side support on the
inside. This will act as the glue tab that will hold the
The finished gate and gate frame.
Front and back views of each of the
completed corner pieces. Note that there is
not a palisade on the second corner.
photograph for proper placement of these pieces. The
gate is folded down the middle and glued together
front to back exactly like the palisades given above.
White space can be cut out if desired after the piece
is dry. In order for the gate to be free standing (but
not swinging) build the two “feet” on this page. Cut out
and score as indicated, being sure to cut out the slot
in the middle. Fold the piece in half and fold the 2
bottom panels under. Glue 1 of bottom panels on top
of the other to make a triangular shape. When dry,
apply a small bead of glue to the bottom edge of the
gate and attach the “foot” at the extreme left and right
of the gate at the bottom. See photograph for
particulars.
2 sides together. When dry, fold up the narrow panel
attached to the floor and glue the entire piece to the
back of the earthwork as above. The ladders and
palisade will construct and attach exactly the same
way as in the section above.
The second corner will construct the same way, but
note the steeper angle in the front and at the sides of
the catwalk. The ladders will construct as given
above. Note that this section has no palisade as it was
designed to accommodate a earthwork section for a
left angle turn. When placing a completed earthwork
to the left and right of this corner piece, the palisades
will butt together making a palisade for the corner
piece necessary.
ARCHER SHIELDS
1 Page
This page contains enough pieces to construct 3
archer shields. Each shield consists of 6 pieces, 1 front
shield, 2 wheels, 1 axle and 2 side-bar. Cut out and
score the front shield, fold in the middle and glue
together to form a two sided panel. When dry, cut out
the archer’s ports. Cut out the wheels as squares, fold
in the center and glue together, front to back. When
dry, cut out round. Do not cut out the white square on
the back of the wheel. This is only a marker for axle
placement. Fold the axle into a box shape and glue the
tab to the inside. When dry, fold down the triangular
tabs on either end and glue the ends in place on top.
The 2 side-bar will construct the same way except that
only the back of the side-bar has an end that folds
THE GATE
1 Page
When competed, the gate section has been designed
to fit between 2 earthworks as show in the
photographs. There are 7 pieces needed for
construction of this piece, the crossbeam, 2 uprights
To construct the gabions, cut out and score as
indicated. Fold up all side panels around the top and
fold down the outside facing panels. Glue the top
panels to the inside of the outside panels to create a
recessed top. Work all the way round and when
reaching the last panel, glue the tab to the inside.
To construct the chevaux-de-frise note that each
will consist of 2 pieces. Build one at a time to keep the
left and right sides from getting mixed up. Fold in the
middle and glue together front to back. When dry,
make a cut along the dotted line on both of the pieces.
Slide the 2 pieces together at the cut line forming a
X. If the 2 panels bind together to tightly, widen the
cut line on both sides.
The archer shields. Each page contains
enough parts to make three complete units.
LOOKOUT TOWER
2 Pages
This piece will consist of 4 sections to complete, the
sentry box, the roof, the frame and the ladders. Note
that if you choose to cut out the white areas on the
frame section and the sentry box, it should be done
after gluing the 2 sides together and before final
construction. Start with the sentry box first. Cut out,
score and fold. The outside of the sentry box will be
the panels with the glue tabs attached to the top and
bottom. Fold the piece in half where the floor sections
join. When dry, cut out the white areas in the
openings if desired. Fold the entire piece into a box
shape and fold the floor up. Fold the side panels
around the floor and glue the tabs along the bottom
edges of the side panels to the bottom outside of the
floor. When coming to the last panel, use the extra
support post as a glue tab by gluing to the outside.
This will for the piece into a box shape and hold it
together. Cut out and score the roof and make all
folds. Glue the tab on the side roof panel to the
underside of the opposing panel to close. When dry,
apply glue to the tabs along the top edges of the
sentry box and set the roof in place. Set this section
aside to dry and move along to the frame section.
Note: For this section, the inside panels are the
ones with the glue tabs along the top. The outside
panels have the extra upright post on the far left
panel. Be sure not to trim this off as you will need it
later. Cut out, score and fold the frame section. Apply
glue to the inside (unprinted) areas and glue the two
sides together, front to back. When dry, cut out all the
white areas between the support struts. This step can
be a bit time consuming and nerve wracking, but the
down. What look like glue tabs at the front of the side-
bar will be used for attaching to the axle. For final
construction, attach the axle to the back of the shield
in the white strip marked with a “G” across the
bottom. Attach the wheels to either side of the axle.
Attach the side-bar to either side of the axle so that
they are even with the sides of the front shield.
GABIONS & CHEVAUX-DE-FRISE
1 Page
Historical Note: Gabions were usually built on-site
by sappers (military construction crews) of reeds,
river cane or green saplings woven into large baskets
and filled with earth. Stacked in a single line,
staggered line or one on top of another, they were
often covered over with even more dirt to create walls
and quick fortresses. Gabions were a common
fortification method from the time of the Roman
conquests up to the First World War. Chevaux-De-
Frise were a series of sharpened wooden stakes that
were lashed or otherwise secured to a central post in
a X configuration. They were often set out in rows to
hinder troop movement. In use up to the American
Civil War, they were surpassed by the invention of
barbed wire in the 1870s.
The finished Gabions with three Chevaux-
De-Frise in the background.
The Lookout Towers from the front and back.
final effect is well worth it. When finished, fold the
frame into a box shape and glue the extra upright post
to the outside to close. Check fit this first without glue
as some trimming may be required to make the top
of the post line up with the top of panel. For final
construction, fold down the tabs along the top edges
of the tower section, apply glue and center the sentry
box on top. The ladder should be constructed like the
ladders in the earthworks section and the white
spaces can be cut out if desired. A second ladder has
been included on the first page for the option of
making to entry points on a tower. If you wish to
construct this option, cut an extra doorway panel on
the sentry box before building.
THE STRONGHOLD
5 Pages
NOTE: In order to correctly build this piece you will
need to print 2 copies of Page 1 (the mound side wall,
palisades, and front ladder), Page 3 (the main building
body), and Page 4 (the roof section, door and
windows). You will need only 1 copy of Page 2 (the
mound) and Page 5 (palisade walls).
Cut out and score the mound and 2 mound side
walls. Fold down the sides of the mound. Fold down
the tab along the top of the mound side walls and fold
in the two tabs at either end. Apply glue to the tab
along the top of the side wall and attach to the
underside of the mound. When dry, glue the tabs at
either end to the ends of the side walls already
attached to the mound. Repeat for the other side. Set
aside to dry. Cut out the front ladder and make all
scores and folds. Glue the two sides together, front to
back. When dry, cut out the white spaces between the
supports if desired. For final construction, fold the two
sides back from the front. The front will be the one
with the floor attached to the top. Fold down the two
tabs at the top of the sides and glue the floor in place.
Fold the two tabs with the grass pattern to the inside,
apply glue and attach to the front of the mound in the
center. See photograph for example. A second ladder
can be placed at the back of the mound if desired. Set
aside to dry.
Cut out and score the 2 palisade walls on this page
as indicated. Note that each wall has a tab on back that
must be folded out. Glue the 2 sides together, front to
back, being careful not to glue down the tab at the
back. When dry, cut out the white areas as on the
earthwork walls given above. To finish, attach the
wall to either side of the front of mound by applying
glue to the underside of the back tab and a small bead
of glue along the bottom of the front wall. This will
leave a 1" gap in the center just over the ladder.
Repeat this process for the back. NOTE: If you do not
wish to have a back exit for your model, omit these
steps and instead of using the 2 short walls for the
back, make an extra copy of Page 5 and substitute the
long wall instead.
Assemble the side walls (on Page 5) the same way.
These walls will attach to the mound on the left and
right sides the same way as the front and rear walls
with one added step. The 2 extra posts (on either side
of the walls) will fold in and glue to the inside of the
front and back walls as a glue tab with the printed side
facing out. The basic mound is now finished and can
be set aside to dry.
To construct the building, make 2 copies of Page 3.
Cut out and score 1 of the copies as indicated. On the
second copy, cut out a glue tab on either end when
cutting out this piece. Size restrictions on the image
area did not allow for placement of the tabs on the
graphic, but there should be enough room on the page
The finished Stronghold.
once printed. If desired instead, tabs can be cut from
scrap cardstock and attached the walls after cutting
out. Before assembly, locate the door and door
template on Page 4 and cut out both pieces. Place the
template on one of the walls so that it is centered and
on top of the area with the wood pattern (just above
the rock wall). Trace around the template and cut out.
To assemble the doorway, cut out and score. Fold up
the side and bottom panels from the front and fold and
glue the triangular tabs to the outside. This will
create a shallow box shape with all the printed panels
on the inside. When dry, fold out the tabs along all 4
edges. Glue the completed doorway over the cutout
area in the wall from the inside, matching up the
edges. Set aside to dry. The same method can be used
to create a back door if desired. It can also be placed
at ground level with no effect on final construction.
Before final assembly, it is recommended that the
windows be placed at this time. There are 2 sets of
window types included on this page, with shutters
open and with shutters closed. See photographs for
examples. When all sections are dry, fold the building
into a box shape and glue the tabs to the inside. Set
aside to dry.
A close-up of the ladder arrangement at the
front of the Stronghold. This arrangement
can be used for a back entrance as well.
To construct the roof, cut out both copies and score
as indicated. On at least one copy of the roof, trim off
the tabs. Glue the two sides of the roof together and
glue the last tab to the underside of the opposing
panel. Except for being in 2 pieces, this roof will
assemble the same way as the roof on the lookout
tower. When dry, apply glue to the tabs along the top
of the building and set the roof in place. For final
assembly, fold up the glue tabs along the bottom edges
of the building, apply glue and place in the center of
the mound. For a final touch, assemble the ladder on
Page 4 (it will go together like all the other ladders in
this set) and attach to the bottom of the recessed
doorway as shown in the photograph.
TILE CLIPS
The last page of this set contains 24 tile clips that
are handy little items for holding terrain elements
together so that they can be broken down for
transport. To assemble, cut out and score as inicated.
Cut out the slot in the center of the clip. Fold in the
middle and fold the two base panels to the underside,
gluing one panel on top of the other. This will create
a triangular shape with a slot in the middle. To
connnect 2 pieces of tettain together, place the side of
one piece in the slot and place a second piece next to
it, also fitting the edge in the slot. These clips will keep
the pieces from sliding around during game play.
Also Available from MicroTactix Games!
DIRT CHEEP
STRONGHOLDS
SIEGE ENGINES
The Battering Ram mounts and attack
against the main gate of Dirt Cheep Keeps!
An alternate small fort using the same
elements as the basic set without the towers
and stronghold.
Just a few of the elements, the major siege
machines, from this package.
DESIGNER’S NOTES:
At first glance there doesn’t seem to be much to this
set. A single earthen mound with a catwalk, a couple
of corners and a gate. But, by printing and assembling
multiple copies of these elements, a huge complex of
earthworks and entire forts of just about any size and
configuration can be obtained. These photograph
show what can be done with 6 earthworks, 4 right
corners, 2 left corners and a gate. Gabions and
chevaux-de-frise placed around the fortifications can
add as an extra hinderance to attackers. I hope that
by designing this set I can help add a few new twists
to your role-playing and wargaming needs. I must also
mention that my personal thanks goes out to Greg
Poehlein for his design skills in figuring out how to
build the corner pieces. I must admit, that one
stumped me.
Gary M. Williams
September, 2003
Available now, extra pieces for your
battlefield fortifications! Included are a
working, rolling battering ram, rolling siege
tower with extending ramp, a working
catapult, a balista. Also included are tents,
small earthworks and a full set of 27 stand-up
figures!
www.microtactix.com
TM
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